Winter wreaks havoc on our skin, and as temperatures drop and central heating surges, even the most diligent among us can find ourselves battling dryness, dullness, and that dreaded tight-skin feeling.
The reality is, many of the skincare “saviours” we turn to in the colder months may actually be doing more harm than good. From over-exfoliating to over-moisturising, it’s all too easy to fall into traps that leave our skin worse off than before.
But there’s no need to resign yourself to a season of subpar skin. Leading dermatologists and celebrity skincare experts uncover the most common winter skincare mistakes you may be making – and how to fix them.
What is making your skin feel worse
Skin often feels drier and more irritated in winter due to the fact that it is exposed to extreme temperatures, both inside and out. “Inside central heating reduces the humidity in the air, causing the skin to become dry and making it dehydrated and more prone to itching and irritation,” explains Harley Street skin expert Nina Prisk, founder of Update Aesthetics Clinics.
“The skin acts as a barrier against changes in temperature, however, when exposed to extreme cold temperatures outside it can impact it on a molecular level, and long periods in cold, windy conditions can strip skin of its natural sebum, causing it to become dry, irritated and more prone to premature ageing,” says Prisk.
Habits that could be damaging
Whilst party season often means long nights and clogged pores, your attempts to combat festive flare-ups may be more damaging than you think.
“Over-exfoliating can strip your skin of its natural oils, leaving it dry, irritated, and more susceptible to damage,” explains the co-founder of the AI dermatology platform MiQuest, Majad Hussain.
“During winter, it is best to reduce exfoliation to once or twice a week, or even less if you have particularly dry or sensitive skin,” says Hussain. “Using gentle exfoliants will also help, think chemical exfoliants with AHAs and BHAs, as opposed to any physical exfoliate.”
Alongside stripping your skin, overusing rich products can be equally as damaging. “Using products that are too rich for the skin can overload the skin,” says celebrity facialist Justine Masters, aka the Alternative Facialist. “If the skin is getting dry maybe slow down on all your actives like retinal or vitamin A as they can cause more inflammation in the skin! I love peptides in the winter months as they are great for hydration and also suit most skin types.”
Another mistake could lie in your trusty cleanser. “Avoid foaming cleansers in winter, as they often contain ingredients that strip the skin of its natural oils,” explains Capital Hair and Beauty‘s Karen Hicks. Instead, opt for a cream or gel-based cleanser following up with hydrating serums.
Our efforts to warm up could be the very reason our skin is feeling rough and dehydrated. “While it may feel soothing, taking very hot showers can actually damage your skin,” says Hicks. “Hot water strips away your skin’s natural oils, leaving it dry and irritated. Instead, take shorter, cooler showers and apply moisturiser straight after to help keep your skin nourished and prevent any dryness or flakiness.”
Paula’s Choice 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant – Travel Size, £11 (was £12)
Aveda Botanical Kinetics Purifying Creme Cleanser, £23, Look Fantastic
How to balance moisturising depending on your skin type
Prisk notes there is such a thing as over-moisturising, “For people with oiler skin types, switching to a heavier or an oiler cream in winter can result in clogged and blocked pores and breakouts.”
“Stick to non-comedogenic moisturisers during your winter skin switch-up to avoid clogging pores,” advises dermatologist and co-founder of London’s Ardour Clinic, Dr Paris Acharya. “It can also help to introduce your new moisturiser gradually to allow your skin to adjust.
“Start by only using the richer moisturiser at night, sticking to your current product in the morning or alternatively apply the new moisturiser every other day. After a week of doing so, start to use this every day.”
Cellderma Hyaluronic Cream, £56.86
Facetheory Supergel Oil-Free Moisturiser, £16
Ingredients to avoid
When it comes to the ingredients in your skincare, there are some that are best reserved for the summer months. “Hyaluronic acid isn’t the best humectant to use in winter,” explains Masters, “as there is low humidity in the air so it can pull moisture from the deeper layers of the skin, leading to drier skin.”
If you’re using retinol, which lightly exfoliates your skin and increases collagen production – a serum recommended for mature skin – can be too harsh in the winter months. “In which case, if you’re already using it you might find it beneficial to alternate the days you use it,” suggests Prisk, “and if you aren’t already using it, it’s best not to introduce it during the winter months.”
It’s not just your skincare ingredients to steer clear of – clinical skin expert and founder of CellDerma Dr Dev Patel details what alcohol actually does to your skin.
“Alcohol is a diuretic – a substance that increases the amount of water and salt that is released from the body. So when you drink, the dehydrating effect of alcohol means that your body loses vital nutrients and moisture that are key for healthy, nourished skin,” Patel explains.
“Regular over-consumption of alcohol can therefore result in constant dehydration which then dries your cells out, creating more prominent wrinkles and a dull, grey appearance.”
So when you’re celebrating this party season – ensure to drink as much water as you do champagne to balance out the effects.
