My Nigerian food journey in Derry with Sandy’s African Food Hub

Sandy’s African Food Hub,

169-171 Spencer Road,

Derry,

BT47 6AH

Mazda 3 keeps on getting better

‘We want to change people’s opinions on pies’: Brothers revamping a classic to bring new food stall to Belfast

028 7116 4424

sandysafricanfoodhub.com

I don’t like change. I don’t like trying new things. And it’s not just a matter of being dull and unadventurous (although I am both); it’s also the case that I simply don’t see the point.

If I find something I like, why try something different? Why run the risk of not liking it? A change isn’t always as good as a rest.

Every now and then, though, I’ll give something new a whirl, if only to prove to myself – and others – that I’m right. Except quite often, I find I’m wrong. Which is what happened here, with Sandy’s African Food Hub.

I’d never heard of the place, although it’s been around a while. It has, though, recently moved to a more prominent venue, away from Bonds Street to Spencer Road, where its bright and colourful signage gives it real kerb appeal.

It was a friend who suggested I try Sandy’s, raving about the jollof rice and chicken. I booked a table for Friday night, but Storm Éowyn put the mockers on that, sending the table careening towards Newbuildings. There wasn’t another chance to eat in, so I went down the takeaway route.

Now, although I ordered via Just Eat, I actually called in to get advice beforehand. Sandy’s, you see, specialises in Nigerian food, about which I know absolutely nothing. I recognised some names on the online menu – mainly from TV cooking shows – but I couldn’t see anything I’d tried before. Moi Moi? Puff Puff? Suya? Not a clue. Isiewu? Nkwobi? Abacha? This was unknown territory; I needed guidance.

And that came from Sandy herself. Nigerian-born Sandy has lived in Derry for 13 years, and combines her work in the restaurant with her job as a senior nursing assistant at Gransha Hospital. The restaurant was unsurprisingly empty when I called in at three o’clock in the afternoon, but it had the look of somewhere fun – bright, tight, and colourful.

I knew I wanted the jollof rice and chicken, then Sandy pointed me towards the egusi soup and garri, with a side of plantain, the idea being to give me a sense of Nigerian food, without starting too extreme. So off I went, knowing what I would order online later. A bit of a palaver, but useful.

My wife, daughter, and brother were a little reluctant to join me. They wanted to try the food, but were doubtful they’d like it, so they were getting some pizza when the Just Eat delivery arrived. Nevertheless, despite the surfeit of Margheritas, they all got forks and tucked in alongside me.

First off, the egusi soup. Now, this wasn’t really a soup at all, but more of a loose stew. A very bright dish, it is made up with seeds and a variety of leaves and vegetables. Including hot, hot peppers. I have to say, it wasn’t to my taste – the texture simply didn’t appeal. And nor, I’m afraid, did the garri. The same shape as a haggis, and a similar colour, garri is made from ground cassava root, which is then mixed with water and moulded into a solid form. It had little taste – I think it’s used mainly as a vehicle for other foods – and, once again, the texture didn’t suit.

The jollof rice and chicken, however, was delicious. A tender, nicely-prepared chicken leg sitting on a bed of rich, red rice, hot and bursting with flavour. (There was enough rice for two, by the way, but just the one piece of chicken). And I really enjoyed my first taste of plantain. Cooked to a deep, caramel colour, this was less sweet than banana, but similar in taste and texture. Lovely by itself, it came into its own when stuck on the end of a forkful of rice and chicken.

It didn’t really matter that I found the egusi and garri missed the mark. This is exciting food, new and different to me, and many others, I imagine, and I’ll definitely be trying Sandy’s again now that I’ve had a taste of it.

One other thing, the Just Eat menu doesn’t offer the full range. Your best bet is to eat in or select from the website (sandysafrican.com) and then ring the place direct. Sandy will answer and advise, if you need it.

The bill

Jollof rice and chicken - £12.99

Egusi soup and garri - £12.99

Plantain - £3.50

Nigerian Fanta - £3.00

Total: £32.48