We don’t get many visitors staying at our house and, when we do, they tend to come to see my wife, daughter or brother. Not me.
Don’t ask me why. Maybe it’s something to do with my rules about coasters, or because they have to sign in to use the downstairs bathroom, or the way I ration the biscuits (one chocolate digestive daily, or three rich teas). Who knows?
Nevertheless, we did have house guests during 2024 although, as they were friends with whom we did a house swap, they didn’t actually have to see me.
I’m pretty sure they ignored the two-minute shower regulations but I think they followed the detailed rabbit-feeding instructions I submitted via WhatsApp (there were two living rabbits when we returned, and they were more or less the same colour and size as the ones we left). And I know for sure they had a good time.
Because, let’s face it, who couldn’t have a good time in Derry? Fascinating history, enthralling architecture, friendly people, not to mention the nearby stunning scenery and glorious, empty beaches. And, naturally, the restaurants and cafés dotted around the place.
Recommending places to eat in the north-west is easy. Keeping the list concise is trickier. Thinking back over the lovely food I’ve enjoyed over the last 12 months, it was hard to find somewhere I didn’t like.
That said, some places stood out more than others.
Possibly the best meal I’ve had lately was at Brown’s Bonds Hill, where we went for a birthday celebration. Absolutely faultless, from the amuse bouches to the last spoonful of dessert, all served with friendliness, warmth, and good humour.
We had a similar experience at Oyster’s, in Strabane. Great food and a lovely atmosphere. So many people I’ve spoken to don’t know about it, although it was full when we ate there, like it’s a secret a lot of people are keeping. Dawsons, in Castledawson, was wonderful too.
My favourite places, though, have been the cafés I’ve tried – again and again in these cases. The Pickled Duck closed its Guildhall Square doors, but on the quay and on Greenhaw Road they continue to serve the best and biggest sausage rolls in town.
Slightly smaller versions of the beast are available from Offing, within the Destined building, by the Railway Museum: a fantastic place, in a great location, overlooking the Foyle. Its menu is chockful of delights, but it’s hard to see past the mushroom on toast, with its variety of fungi in a delicious sauce oozing into the sourdough.
And I’ll continue to be a regular at Gráft, too, a great little café by the Model Primary School. Fine toasties, great traybakes, beautiful coffee, Irish conversation classes, story-telling nights, and the co-owner, Lucas, is an Everton fan. What more do you want?
There were low points, too, of course, lowest of all being the closure of the Sooty Olive, a terrific restaurant that seemed like a fixture on Spencer Road, right up until the time it wasn’t. Chef-owner, Sean Harrigan, certainly deserves a rest, but I hope it’s not long before he’s back behind the oven.
The Sooty Olive’s location was taken over by the Indian restaurant, Moksh. I’m looking forward to trying it, and I’ll be interested to see if it’s as good as Chilli’s, an unassuming restaurant and takeaway on the Strand Road, where some of the food is as good as you’ll find on Manchester’s Curry Mile.
And, talking of places I’m looking forward to trying, I can’t wait to give Sandy’s African Food Hub a go. The restaurant promises traditional African recipes made with locally-grown ingredients and, while I don’t recognise many dishes on the menu, I’m eager to learn more. This year I also want to find out why there are such long queues outside Guapo every time I drive past. It can’t just be because they serve such good student hangover cures.
One place I don’t especially want to see here in the north-west is Greggs. The chain is expanding in Northern Ireland and, while I don’t mind having its bewilderingly iconic products if nothing else is available, we have much better available here, so I hope talk of Greggs coming to Derry stays just talk.
Don’t think I’ve gone all Royston Vasey, mind. Although I don’t yearn for Pret A Manger to open here, I don’t think a Christmas sandwich delivery service is too much to ask for. All-year round, preferably.
